Keywords: "Oshi" and "Haku"
The word "Oshi"(押)means to press and "Haku"(箔) means foil. This is a process of pasting foil. Foil is also known as gold or silver leaf. Apply glue to where you desire to paste the gold or silver foil. Lightly, wipe off the glue with a cotton cloth. Promptly and gently, paste the foil to avoid getting creases. It is crucial to let it dry with natural air.
"Suri"(摺り) means to print. This traditional printing technique is performed to show countless flashes of gold and silver. It allows for kimono clothes to appear luxurious. Place a paper pattern on the fabric. The paper patterns are made in quantities of colors used in a design. (In general, 1 to 30 paper patterns are used. For complicated design, approximately 300 to 500 paper patterns are made and used in this laborious technique. ) Apply glue with a Japanese traditional Koma-spatula and sprinkle gold or silver dust. Repeat this process, layer by layer. 。
▪️Sprinkling gold leaf
Keywords: "Huri Otoshi" and "Sunago"
"Huri Otoshi"(振り落とし)refers to sprinkle and "Sunago"(砂子) means gold or silver dust. This is a coloring technique that utilizes a traditional bamboo tube filled with gold or silver dust, which has wire mesh on the tip of the opening. A traditional hard brush is used to paint. Typically 3 to 6 colors are required, just to paint a petal of a flower to deliver a delicacy and aesthetic in colors. The "Huri Otoshi Kindami Sunago"(振り落とし金彩砂子) was applied to a short-sleeved kimono worn by a Japanese painter Ogata korin who is known for byo bu folding screen, in the mid-Edo period. 。
Keyword: "Moriage Haku"
The term "Moriage Haku" itself means to raise or exaggerate the foil. This is a technique to give a 3-dimensional visual effect in lines, surfaces, and dots by using glue with high viscosity in its procedure.
> Heat or spray with a mixture of solvent to the glued area. Sprinkle gold, or silver dust to give it a fancy glossiness. This effect can emulate the look of Japanese traditional embroidery stitches.
▪️Golden line painting The word
"Kin Sen"(金線) means the golden line. lt is a style of painting that utilizes a slim tubed paper with an extremely small hole on the tip. This tubed paper contains a mixture of solvent, oil synthetic resin, and metal powder. This ink gives lines and dots on kimono clothes a smooth, soft, and sober look.
▪️Muddy gold painting
This is an ink that contains alluvial gold or silver and resin(also known as Nikawa). The purpose of applying this exclusive ink is to enhance the elegance in design. This ink can be painted directly on the fabric with a brush or by using a wooden pattern and a spatula.
"Kiri"(切)means to cut. It is a process of cutting pasting foil. This skill is to give a kimono, subtle beauty, and unique identity by pasting strips. Sprinkle gold or silver dust on deer leather, place it onto a cutting board, and slice it with a traditional sharpened bamboo knife (Shino knife) into extremely thin strips.
"Hagashi"(剥がし)means to peel off. This method is applied to harmonize きつい色 and gold and silver dust. The procedure starts by painting the base layer with the traditional Yuzen pattern in きつい色 Apply glue on the whole base. Paste or sprinkle gold or silver foil. Peel off the foil with a cotton cloth after they are naturally dried.
This will allow the base layer (Yuzen pattern) to appear casually, while gold or silver foil flashes beautifully. It brings a new sensation to the fabric.
There are many more techniques that can make fabrics transform into a distinctive, and phenomenal look such as "Mawata Haku"(まわた箔), "Momi Haku"(もみ箔), "Piece Kakou "(ピース加工) and "Hot Stamping kakou"(ホットスタンピング加工).